February 23, 2025 |
Sinéad O’Dwyer’s AW25 collection was a powerful reflection on the universe she’s built – one populated by rebellious schoolgirls, brooding musicians and women who move through the world with quiet defiance. As her tenure with BFC’s Newgen scheme comes to a close and she edges closer to fashion’s big leagues as an LVMH Prize semi-finalist, this collection felt like both a culmination and a step forward.
Her signature structured shirting returned, this time cut in crisp deadstock nylon with sculptural yoke detailing, while a pencil skirt with a bubble hem brought a new sense of drama. Sensuality pulsed through the collection – silk organza layered in black and turquoise mimicked the candlelit glow of a Visionaire editorial, while leather micro-culottes and cropped trench coats played with power and provocation. The brand’s iconic shibari knits evolved into sheer, body-tracing silhouettes, complete with Amber bead embellishments and slashes of scarlet satin.
Denim and tailoring made a stronger statement – high-collared jackets, darted leotards, and spiral-seamed jeans exuded effortless edge. Footwear, a collaboration with Grounds and Puma, merged traditional Irish dance references with modern athleticism for sporty sneaks and alien-esque stompers.
O’Dwyer has never been one for nostalgia, but AW25 proved that looking back can be just as radical as charging forward.
Photography courtesy of Sinead O’Dwyer.
