To haunting sounds composed by Aase Nielsen that oscillated between soul-stirring screeches and soothing lullabies, Magliano’s AW25 menswear outing brought attendees to the edge of the Adriatic Sea, where industrial and sensual collide. The evocative music mirrored the contrast-focused theme of the collection, which, as per usual, found its footing in sweaty, techno nights – “the ideal place for a romantic excess”, according the Italian brand.
But this season, its signature lived-in glamour took an inverted approach. That meant underwear was worn on the outside and belts cinched in thighs. Models of all ages and genders stepped out with a slow saunter as fabrics emphasised the collection’s tactile appeal. Ribbed cotton, transparent mohair and padded crepe-de-chine enhanced its softened allure. T-shirt scraps were tied to jackets, referencing archaeology and relics; prints inspired by ruins, lost civilisations and nightlife; jewellery as remnants of the past, encrusted with “sweat” and sand. Knitwear was adorned with Swarovski crystals emitting a worn-out, dusty glow and reflecting a certain weathered elegance that felt familiar amongst a Magliano offering.
Cropping up in clenched fists, a special handbag – crafted in collaboration with fellow Italian brand Medea – embodied the collection’s layered and deconstructed aesthetic, wrapping cotton Magliano knickers over its leather body.
Also on view, a new label, Nudo By Magliano, made its debut. Focused on reinterpreting basics with a mix of fleece, cotton and classic materials, tailored for unexpected nocturnal adventures, it offered a sort of calm amidst the chaos. It was yet another addicting contrast, guaranteed to leave onlookers wanting much, much more.
Photography courtesy of Magliano.
