January 28, 2022 |
Jean Paul Gaultier’s line-up of guest couture designers welcomed Glenn Martens, the designer behind Paris bassed label Y/Project. He was given full access to the Gaultier archives and atelier (where he interned as a student). He took the codes of the house – corsetry, stripes, tailoring – and translated it into his own Y/project language, exposing hip bones and using wires to create and distort silhouettes.
There were gowns galore, as the designer leaned into the couture aesthetic. There were billowing cloud-like constructions, and one knitted pencil dress was entirely encrusted with coral spikes. Edgy, avant-garde and spectacular, it was fascinating and rewarding to see Gaultier through the energised eyes of different creatives.
Photography courtesy of Jean Paul Gaultier.
