March 2, 2023 |
Were we in some strange, 1990s dystopia, perhaps? Seated in a giant stadium, the models walked slowly around the edges of the lines of seating criss crossing a giant mirrored stage, reflecting the audience and a lone drummer. Introspection. The collection was an ode to a bygone era, a time when experimentation with deconstructed fabrics and shapes was the go and a reaction to the shiny, glossy decade of ’80s success/excess. Belted wool coats were etched with waists of ragged gold foil; bias cut chiffon tea dresses hung as elegantly as any 1930s gown, and unfinished raw edges added a softer faded femininity to the darker masculine tailoring at play here and everywhere this season.
Photography courtesy of Dries Van Noten.
