February 24, 2023 |
There was a darker mood in the air at Nicola Brognano’s latest Blumarine show, as the sugary hues of collections gone-by were swapped out for rustic browns, greys and muted greens. It was as if the Blumarine girl had found herself in some sort of forest rave, as models trudged through a soiled, moss-laden catwalk backdropped by the brand’s B emblem which was lit into flames. Though the collection was less Burning Man and more grounded in an everyday wardrobe, with Brognano exercising his skill in crafting superb outerwear – particularly the cargo-style bombers and a shearling-leather trench. The designer was inspired by The Messenger: The Story of Joan of Arc, translating Milla Jovovich’s armour in the film into metallic jersey mini-dresses worn over leggings, belted bustier tops and knickerbockers paired with pointed leather boots. His slinky, ruffled party dresses and belly-baring separates now came in ribbed knits, whilst shredded chiffon evening gowns gave the Blumarine look a ferocious edge. Once tied to the dance floor, Brognano’s design handwriting has reached new heights.
Photography by Christina Fragkou.
